Thailand
January 5th, 2009(This is completely unrelated to Flying Mac, and is probably blog abuse, so there’s not much point reading it unless you’re off to Thailand. If you are, lucky you!)
Pronunciation
Most things are said as they look… except ph, th and possibly some others, which are just said like p and t. So the middle word of “Ko Pha Ngan” (an island near Ko Samui) is said Pa - don’t say Fa, it’ll just makes you sound like an ignorant melonfarmer. (Kind of like pronouncing Manurewa as Manure-wa. Actually, that’s quite tempting.)
So “Surat Thani” has a hard t and more or less rhymes with blarney.
Oh, and they do use those letters without the h as well, eg. you might hear people talking about a place that sounds like Pie - it’s spelt “Pai”, not Phai (or Phie or Pie for that matter). No way of knowing really.
Ko means island by the way. Like a lot of languages that are transliterated over into our letters, spelling varies a bit, so you’ll also see Koh. Ditto “Had Rin” instead of “Hat Rin” etc etc.
Bangers
If you want to stay here and have a look round, and you should, do it when you arrive not before you leave. The idea being it’s better to leave with a beach vibe than with a lungful of carbon monoxide. It’s manic. If I were going back to Thailand, I’d make sure the end of my trip involved a connecting flight to Bangkok from Ko Samui or somewhere else near the beach, then straight onto the international flight.
Guest houses will usually look after excess luggage (and shopping) so you can flee to the islands with just a loincloth, a camera and a good book. Cannot overstate the joy of travelling light.
If you can manage it, take the opportunity to stay in a 5 star hotel for not too much money. It’s totally worth it - the peace and luxury is so much better when it contrasts with Bangkok madness. Make sure you stay two nights, not just one - you need a complete day. asiahotels.com is how we booked. Check with Marion and Rohan to see where they stayed. I’ll have a look too.
It’s good to stay around Khao San Road if you’re not somewhere flash. Yes, everyone goes there, but it’s worth it. But don’t stay on Khao San Road itself - it’s freakin loud and probably only for people who don’t know any better. Five minutes wander away and it’s much nicer:
Taxis (but see below)
Cars are nice because they have air-conditioning and are relatively quiet.
Tuk-tuks are faster because they can fit through smaller gaps and cheaper, plus you get to breathe in the sweet sweet city air.
Getting on the back of a motorbike taxi is quicker again, but with obvious disadvantages (especially once you’ve seen the driving).
Showing the driver where you want to go on the map isn’t as useful as you might think: I suspect quite a few people can’t or don’t want to read, while others just find maps a bit abstract. Maybe they just don’t think that way, and besides, your map’s probably in English. In any case, it’s more useful to tell them where you’re going.
Don’t let them take you anywhere else (usually shops) “on the way”.
Other ways to get around The Kok
The boats running along the river like buses are a great way to get around if they’re going where you want to be. There’s a stop a couple of blocks north of Khao San Rd for example.
Skytrain is also great if it’s going your way. Aircon, efficiency.
Basically it’s just more chilled out if you don’t travel by road.
Getting around the country
I am old and lazy and think it’s worth flying if you can manage it. Bangkok Air does a deal for US$60 a flight that I used while I was there once. I think you need a minimum of three flights. You can include international flights - Luang Prabang in Laos is absolutely stunning for example. Will probably cost a bit more.
Second best are trains - sleeper trains are good as it’s 12 hours or something to go south for example. Watch out for aircon - their philosophy is “if cold is good, colder must be better” - and you can end up freezing your testicles off, especially since you probably only have summer clothes at this point. Nobody needs that.
I’ve never gone more than a few hours by bus, although you can, and it’s cheaper. But “buses” are often actually vans, in which case they’re fairly cramped, the drivers often drive slowly to save petrol and won’t use the aircon - again, to save petrol. Now you’re hot, cramped and frustrated by the slow driving. Actual buses are referred to as “big buses” as far as I remember, and were reasonable. I like trains though.
Accommodation
Always make sure you see the room first…but you knew that already.
Beaches
South for beaches, north for culture, basically.
Probably best to avoid places associated with package tours, specifically Pattaya and Phuket. Actually I bet Phuket has nice bits too, but I’ve never been there. I’ve never heard anything good about Pattaya though. Also avoid Ko Chang (the one near Trat - there are two) - me and Jo had a crap time there mostly. I think it’s cursed.
In the south, you’re either on the islands off the east coast - Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, Ko Tao - or on the west coast or islands. It’s a few hours’ drive from one side to the other, boats not included.
To generalise, the east is cheaper, more laid-back and generally more backpackery, although you certainly don’t need to slum it.
Ko Samui is pretty commercial and I haven’t spent more than a night there.
Ko Pha Ngan
Most of my beach time on this side has been on Ko Pha Ngan.
I reckon you’d really like Thong Nai Pan, which is where Jo and I went. It’s got a range of accomodation, a beautiful beach and a few different restaurants to make life interesting. In fact just thinking about it makes me want to go back. Lots of these places have “Ao” in front of the name which just means beach (I think).
If you’re feeling rich you could stay at the Panviman Resort which is rather luxurious, up on the hill away from the hoi polloi. But you can do very well in a bungalow on the beach. We stayed at Baan Panburi which was great. They seem to be pretty well organised with a reception area and everything so you could even book ahead here to make sure you get a nice room.
If you look at a map you’ll see there are actually two beaches: Thong Nai Pan Noi and Thong Nai Pan Yai. We stayed at Noi; it seemed nicer.
Avoid Hat Rin (home of the full moon parties) unless you’ve suddenly become party animals. You pretty much have to stay out all night here because the bars open all night and music’s really, really loud.
I spent two weeks at Bottle Beach. It’s more basic than Thong Nai Pan, and you can only get there by boat, but it’s pretty cool. You really need to be prepared to do not much at all here.
Ko Tao
People mainly come here for the diving - the beaches are better elsewhere - although diving’s not all it has going for it.
We stayed and dived at Chalok, a smaller place away from the main town (ie. where the boats get in), but still close. A scooter is useful here for nipping around. Actually when I came back I stayed in a cool place up a hill over the sea, further out again from the town. I think it’s called New Heaven.
West
I haven’t been over this side since the Tsunami - I know it did a lot of damage in some places but what things are like since I dunno.
Anyway, it was stunning over here - heaps of crazy dramatic limestone cliffs over beaches. You go to a town called Krabi and get to places from there as far as I remember. There’s an absoltely stunning place you get a boat to and stay at, but I’ve totally forgotten the name for the moment. Hmm.
The Norf
Don’t know if you’re going up north or whether you just want to stick to islands ‘n’ beaches. But if you do….
Hang out in Chiang Mai for a while.
Go to Pai - I didn’t, but everyone I met raved about it.
I hear Chiang Rai is good too. Charlotte the New Girl suggests doing a cooking course here (or in Chiang Mai if you don’t make it). Bloody great! You’ll love it!
Lots of people do trekking up here, ride on elephants and stay the night in hill tribe villages. Not to be a grinch but personally I thought this sounded bloody awful: half an hour on an elephant is quite enough, walking through the jungle probably about the same, and the idea if being a tourist in a “real village” with “the natives” just sounds a bit gross. People have stories about being the only white people some of them have seen, but (sorry Charlotte) I’m not convinced. Still, people often get to smoke opium, which I suspect is why they really go.
